"The steak is wearing a watch more expensive than mine."
The steak
The bone-in filet is rich and direct, with enough char to make the room briefly stop negotiating.
Sides and apps
Apps are strong, sides are solid, and the crab earns its own little press conference.
Drinks
Wine list has range, but the bill arrives like a fourth-quarter comeback against your wallet.
Service
Polished and quick, with just enough swagger to fit the room.
Vibes
Clubby, coastal, a little chaotic, and very aware that people are ordering the expensive thing.
Final verdict
A contender with a championship ceiling and a luxury-tax problem.